Some parts of the garden and yard still have lots of clay. Getting better but enough to be something of a problem.
It's fairly easy to tell how much clay is in any particular area. Water barely penetrates but sits on the surface for a long time. The more healthy soil absorbs water almost instantly. So, some parts of the garden can be watered and the water instantly soaks in. In other areas, it takes longer and can run off of mounds before soaking into the soil.
The more clay areas have not yet been tilled this year. My biggest concern is how much this reflects how much sodium still remains in the soil. I am going to till more over the next week or two and treat heavily with sulfuric acid. Of course, also tilling in organic material. I think the corn from last year is really helping with that.
I do still continue doing lots of reading to learn more about correcting the soil. One thing I have definitely confirmed is that the sulfuric acid is the right thing to be doing.
I had my suspicions and confirmed that as long as soil remains heavily clay, it indicates an alkaline condition and a high sodium content. The acid dissolves the clay, making the soil more porous and allowing the sodium to leach downward.
I've determined that this year, I'm going to spray (in streams) a strong sulfuric acid solution in the rows between mounds to control weeds and acidify the soil while doing drip irrigation on top of the mounds. Most of the acid will be neutralized in the rows before working by capillary action to the mounds. Keep a close eye on the pH of the mounds. If the mounds start becoming too acidic, it's unlikely I'll have to do anything but stop the acid treatments for a while.
Temps are climbing slowly. I'm hoping to see some spinach and lettuce sprouting soon.
Broccoli and I just don't seem to get along. The broccoli seedlings don't seem to be doing well at all. Blah.
It's fairly easy to tell how much clay is in any particular area. Water barely penetrates but sits on the surface for a long time. The more healthy soil absorbs water almost instantly. So, some parts of the garden can be watered and the water instantly soaks in. In other areas, it takes longer and can run off of mounds before soaking into the soil.
The more clay areas have not yet been tilled this year. My biggest concern is how much this reflects how much sodium still remains in the soil. I am going to till more over the next week or two and treat heavily with sulfuric acid. Of course, also tilling in organic material. I think the corn from last year is really helping with that.
I do still continue doing lots of reading to learn more about correcting the soil. One thing I have definitely confirmed is that the sulfuric acid is the right thing to be doing.
I had my suspicions and confirmed that as long as soil remains heavily clay, it indicates an alkaline condition and a high sodium content. The acid dissolves the clay, making the soil more porous and allowing the sodium to leach downward.
I've determined that this year, I'm going to spray (in streams) a strong sulfuric acid solution in the rows between mounds to control weeds and acidify the soil while doing drip irrigation on top of the mounds. Most of the acid will be neutralized in the rows before working by capillary action to the mounds. Keep a close eye on the pH of the mounds. If the mounds start becoming too acidic, it's unlikely I'll have to do anything but stop the acid treatments for a while.
Temps are climbing slowly. I'm hoping to see some spinach and lettuce sprouting soon.
Broccoli and I just don't seem to get along. The broccoli seedlings don't seem to be doing well at all. Blah.
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