More calcium.

Did some more research on more scholarly sites about calcium and magnesium in the soil. Going to hold back on the magnesium for now but not the calcium.

I was worried I was using too much calcium or it would become too much in the near future. Turns out that it can take tons of calcium to bind up the sodium in really sodic (sodium saturated) soil. So I guess I'm okay and will keep using it.

Couple of things, though. The form of calcium I'm using is slow acting (but most affordable and will remain in the soil longer, for a more sustained level). At least some of the calcium I apply now won't be of benefit until at least next year. It has to be digested by microbes before it is available for plant digestion. You can get forms of calcium which are more immediately available but it costs much more. (When a university says the cost may be prohibitive, believe it!)

I also need to add sulfur. Sulfur helps dissolve the calcium in the soil. Note that calcium has to be present for this to work, while NM soil is noted extremely low in calcium.

Then I need to till deeply, below the root zone. Water and calcium leech sodium down as far as the hard clay level. Have to add organic material as I till. And water to saturation during winter months to wash the sodium downward.

Meanwhile, maybe it would be good to look for sodium tolerant varieties of seeds. Seeds saved from crops which have survived well here is a good tactic. Should be more tolerant over generations.More calcium.

Did some more research on more scholarly sites about calcium and magnesium in the soil. Going to hold back on the magnesium for now but not the calcium.

I was worried I was using too much calcium or it would become too much in the near future. Turns out that it can take tons of calcium to bind up the sodium in really sodic (sodium saturated) soil. So I guess I'm okay and will keep using it.

Couple of things, though. The form of calcium I'm using is slow acting (but most affordable and will remain in the soil longer, for a more sustained level). At least some of the calcium I apply now won't be of benefit until at least next year. It has to be digested by microbes before it is available for plant digestion. You can get forms of calcium which are more immediately available but it costs much more. (When a university says the cost may be prohibitive, believe it!)

I also need to add sulfur. Sulfur helps dissolve the calcium in the soil. Note that calcium has to be present for this to work, while NM soil is noted extremely low in calcium.

Then I need to till deeply, below the root zone. Water and calcium leech sodium down as far as the hard clay level. Have to add organic material as I till. And water to saturation during winter months to wash the sodium downward.

Meanwhile, maybe it would be good to look for sodium tolerant varieties of seeds. Seeds saved from crops which have survived well here is a good tactic. Should be more tolerant over generations.