Until this year just the folding would cause the soil to crust and harden. Doesn't seem to be happening now. That's a very good sign.
Next step is going to be getting the irrigation system configured for the year. Then run those strong solutions one more time through the system. More targeted and I can let the acid sit in the lines for a full day to clear old mineral deposits. Run clear water and then start planting out. Hoping the strong acid will also desiccate weed seeds in those areas.
Have to get the last of the burning done this week. When depends on the winds. Have to make each burn very small and last only a few minutes. Which is my habit, any way if an open burn. But they announced a burn ban to last all summer just this week. Have to keep each burn small and short enough to avoid a response from the fire department.
Transplanted more pepper seedlings to larger pots last night. Then started some scorpion pepper seeds. Turned out to be a good deal. It was supposed to be 60 seeds but they actually sent me over 100. I started 72, one seed starting tray. See how they do this year. If these germinate, maybe I'll start the rest. Thought of offering them to the ex but I don't think they have any place safe enough from their dogs. These peppers require extreme safety precautions and it would be bad if the dogs got hold of them. I'll just offer her some of the peppers if they grow for her new husband, who likes hot food. I won't be eating any of them.
New tiller tines should be here Monday. Wait for those before tilling the last section of main north garden and the flower bed in the front yard. Those areas will be the roughest this year and the new tines will help.
I'm just reserving the compost this year for large planters. Figured I can build several large planters with fence slats. Should be able to make 3 ft by 1 ft by 1 ft planters for under $20 each. Maybe under $10 each. Just spray the outsides with water repellent and line the inside with plastic sheeting and make a couple of small drain holes. Compost on the bottom and commercial potting soil on top. Keep the size down so I can move them if necessary. By the end of the year the compost will be finished compost and I can empty them out into the garden and till it in. Repeat the cycle next year. It would make it much easier to control weeds and grass for small crops less tolerant of salt and weeds. Even be better for some flowers.
I am happy for the gate the church built and the wooden fence the neighbors built last year. I'm not that private but they act as wind shields for the garden. Not completely effective but definitely not bad. They will help decrease weed seeds blown in from outside. So, once I get the weeds under control in my yard, it will be much easier to keep them that way. Not to mention a lot less trash blown in from the church parking lot.
Checked the OReilly website again and the website for the brand of acid. The company doesn't make recycled acid, only new. The location says they keep the 5 gal containers in stock. My only concern is that it's bag in box. Not sure it has a dispensing mechanism. Description doesn't say. Check with them next paycheck. Will definitely buy at least one to kill these Chinese Elms which have been such a problem. Still not dead. Argh! I don't worry about the acid effects long term because the soil will neutralize it and it will dissipate over time. Just want to apply strong concentrations to the roots to kill these trees. Over time it will be beneficial. If the 5 gal has no dispenser mechanism, I'll buy one gal containers for general use. More expensive but only $10 a gal as opposed to $8 a quart Auto Zone is now charging. Wish I had known that the other day.
By the way, Muriatic acid is cheaper many places, at about $6 a gal. However, the information I have read is extremely mixed on benefits versus toxicity. Not that much actual chemical information. Environmentalists basically oppose any form of acid and post everywhere on how dangerous it is and how damaging any chemical is. They advise sulfur, peat moss and iron. Things they fail to consider are the damages done by strip mining, reduction of peat bogs, more extensive shipping.. And the fact that all of those things take time. Taking more time also means less control. There are nutrients in my soil and in most alkaline soils. Alkaline conditions and salts bind up those nutrients. Once you start reducing the pH, those nutrients become available. Which is good until they become toxic. Short lived acids reduce this effect and will achieve balance more quickly by making the soil more amenable to acid loving organisms. If you apply to much sulfur, peat moss and/or aluminum, that acidity level will take much longer to achieve balance and will remain toxically acidic for much longer. Unless you start chasing your tail with adding lime.
I'll stick with my approach for now. I am fully in favor of environmentalism but in a balanced approach with technology. I am not in favor of one over the other but a balanced and combined approach. Acids and chemicals which occur in nature but lack locally are not a problem when used with caution. To this point, I have used a very gradual approach and have gone through a maximum of 1 gal of sulfuric acid. Learned the benefits, risks and length of each. Considering the effect on sodium, for my garden the benefits far outweigh the risks and some benefits are permanent when combined with other steps. I've proven that and it is easily visible in my garden right this minute, just viewing the garden soil right next to less treated soil. It is also evident when it rains or I water heavily. There was once a brown crust which formed on the surface, which was all salt. That happens a lots less, if at all.
By the way, I have applied iron, sulfur, wood chips and compost in large amounts over time for a longer term effect.
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